Metropolitan Borough of Bermondsey

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Metropolitan Borough of Bermondsey

The Metropolitan Borough of Bermondsey was a Metropolitan borough in the County of London, created in 1900 by the London Government Act 1899. It was abolished and its area became part of the London Borough of Southwark in 1965.

Formation and boundaries

The borough was formed from four civil parishes: St Mary Magdalen Bermondsey, St Mary Rotherhithe, Southwark St John Horsleydown and Southwark St Olave and St Thomas. In 1904 these four were combined into a single civil parish called Bermondsey, which was conterminous with the metropolitan borough.

Previous to the borough's formation it had been administered by three separate local bodies: St Olave District Board of Works, Bermondsey Vestry and Rotherhithe Vestry.

Coat of Arms

History

The Victorian vestry hall on Spa Road, SE16, was bombed during the Second World War. After the war the neighbouring Municipal Offices (1928, designed by H Tansley) took over the role. Bermondsey Town Hall continued to house civic offices, latterly for Southwark Council, until being sold off in 2012.

The population declined sharply after the Second World War, being cut by about half from 1931 to 1951.

Population

• 1901 - 130,760

Politics: The Twelve Wards

The borough was divided into twelve wards for elections: No. 1 Bermondsey, No. 2 Bermondsey, No. 3 Bermondsey, No. 4 Bermondsey, No. 5 Bermondsey, No. 6 Bermondsey, No. 1 Rotherhithe, No. 2 Rotherhithe, No. 3 Rotherhithe, St John, St Olave and St Thomas

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Bermondsey

Bermondsey (/ˈbɜːrməndzi/ BUR-mənd-zee) is a district in southeast London, part of the London Borough of Southwark, England, 2+1⁄2 miles (4 kilometres) southeast of Charing Cross. To the west of Bermondsey lies Southwark, to the east Rotherhithe and Deptford, to the south Walworth and Peckham, and to the north is Wapping across the River Thames. It lies within the historic county boundaries of Surrey. During the Industrial Revolution Bermondsey became a canter for manufacturing, particularly in relation to tanning. More recently it has experienced regeneration including warehouse conversions to flats and the provision of new transport links.

History

Toponymy

Bermondsey may be understood to mean Beornmund's island; but, while Beornmund represents an Old English personal name, identifying an individual once associated with the place, the element "-ey" represents Old English eg, for "island", "piece of firm land in a fen", or simply a "place by a stream or river". Thus Bermondsey need not have been an island as such in the Anglo-Saxon period, and is as likely to have been a higher, drier spot in an otherwise marshy area. Though Bermondsey's earliest written appearance is in the Domesday Book of 1086, it also appears in a source which, though surviving only in a copy written at Peterborough Abbey in the 12th century, claiming "ancient rights" unproven purporting to be a transcription of a letter of Pope Constantine (708–715), in which he grants privileges to a monastery at Vermundesei, then in the hands of the abbot of Medeshamstede, as Peterborough was known at the time.

Anglo-Saxon and Norman period

Bermondsey appears in the Domesday Book as Bermundesy and Bermundesye, in the Hundred of Brixton within the County of Surrey. It was then held by King William, though a small part was in the hands of Robert, Count of Mortain, the king's half brother, and younger brother of Odo of Bayeux, then earl of Kent. Its Domesday assets were recorded as including 13 hides, 'a new and handsome church', 5 ploughs, 20 acres (8 hectares) of meadow, and woodland for 5 pigs. It rendered £15 in total. It also included interests in London, in respect of which 13 burgesses paid 44d (£0.18).

The church mentioned in Domesday Book was presumably the nascent Bermondsey Abbey, which was founded as a Cluniac priory in 1082, and was dedicated to St Saviour. Monks from the abbey began the development of the area, cultivating the land and embanking the riverside. They turned an adjacent tidal inlet at the mouth of the River Neckinger into a dock, named St Saviour's Dock after their abbey. But Bermondsey then was little more than a high street ribbon (the modern Bermondsey Street), leading from the southern bank of the Thames, at Tooley Street, up to the abbey close.

The Knights Templar also owned land here and gave their names to one of the most distinctive streets in London: Shad Thames (a corruption of "St John at Thames"). Other ecclesiastical properties stood nearby at Tooley Street (a corruption of "St Olave's"), owned by the priors of Lewes, St Augustine's, and Canterbury, as well as the abbot of Battle. These properties are located within the Archbishop of Canterbury's manor of Southwark, where wealthy citizens and clerics had their houses.

14th century

King Edward III built a manor house close to the Thames in Bermondsey in 1353. The excavated foundations are visible next to Bermondsey Wall East, close to the famous Angel public house.

Early Modern period

As it developed over the centuries, Bermondsey underwent some striking changes. After the Great Fire of London, it was settled by the well-to-do, and took on the character of a garden suburb especially along the line of Grange Road and Bermondsey Wall East as it became more urbanised. A pleasure garden was constructed during the Restoration period in the 17th century, commemorated by the Cherry Garden Pier. Samuel Pepys once visited here.

A rare surviving building from this period is St Mary Magdalen Church in Bermondsey Street, completed in 1690 (although a church has been recorded on this site from the 13th century). This church survived the 19th-century redevelopment phase and the Blitz unscathed. It is an unusual survivor for Bermondsey as buildings of this period are relative rarities in Inner London in general.

In the 18th century, the discovery of a spring from the river Neckinger in the area led to the development of Bermondsey Spa, as the area between Grange and Jamaica Roads called Spa Road commemorates. A new church was built for the growing population of the area, and named St John Horsleydown.

Industrial era

Bermondsey was one of London's major industrial centers. It was the chief center for the leather trade and tannery industry, food processing and manufacture, and the heart of the provisions trade in London. Colloquially the area has been known as "larder of London", "biscuits town", and the "land of leather" reflecting the influence of these industries. While many of these industries have declined, their factories, warehouses and wharfs, and institutions remain significant in the area's built heritage and local landmarks, and are reflected in street and building names.

It was from the Bermondsey riverside that the painter J. M. W. Turner executed his famous painting of The Fighting "Temeraire" Tugged to her Last Berth to be Broken Up (1839), depicting the veteran warship being towed to Rotherhithe to be scrapped.

By the mid-19th century factories sprang up, most notably the landmark factories of Alaska Factory (originally opened by fur merchants C.W. Martin & Sons Ltd in 1869 for the processing of the Alaskan sealskin fur), Salt, cheese and Hartley's Jam. Parts of Bermondsey, especially along the riverside, had become notorious slums with the arrival of industrial plants, docks and immigrant housing. The area around St. Saviour's Dock, known as Jacob's Island, was considered one of the worst slums in London. It was immortalized in Charles Dickens's novel Oliver Twist, in which the villain, Bill Sikes, meets his end in the mud of 'Folly Ditch', in reference to Hickman's Folly, which surrounded Jacob's Island. Dickens provides a vivid description of what it was like:

"... crazy wooden galleries common to the backs of half a dozen houses, with holes from which to look upon the slime beneath; windows, broken and patched, with poles thrust out, on which to dry the linen that is never there; rooms so small, so filthy, so confined, that the air would seem to be too tainted even for the dirt and squalor which they shelter; wooden chambers thrusting themselves out above the mud and threatening to fall into it—as some have done; dirt-besmeared walls and decaying foundations, every repulsive lineament of poverty, every loathsome indication of filth, rot, and garbage: all these ornament the banks of Jacob's Island."

Bermondsey vestry hall was built on Spa Road in 1881 but was severely damaged by bombing during the Blitz in 1941. It was demolished soon thereafter. The original vestry hall was extended to create the Bermondsey Town Hall in 1930. The area was extensively redeveloped during the 19th century and early 20th century with the expansion of the river trade and the arrival of the railways. London's first passenger railway terminus was built by the London to Greenwich Railway in 1836 at London Bridge. The first section to be used was between the Spa Road Station and Deptford High Street. This local station had closed by 1915.

The industrial boom of the 19th century was an extension of Bermondsey's manufacturing role in earlier eras. As in the East End, industries that were deemed too noisome to be carried on within the narrow confines of the City of London had been located here – one such that came to dominate central Bermondsey, away from the riverfront, was the processing and trading of leather and hides. Many of the warehouse buildings from this era survive around Bermondsey Street, Tanner Street, Morocco Street and Leathermarket Street including the huge Leather Market of 1833 and the Leather, Hide and Wool Exchange of 1878; virtually all are now residential and small work spaces or offices. Hepburn and Gale's tannery (disused as of early 2007) on Long Lane is also a substantial surviving building of the leather trade. The Exchange building had a fine private club, effectively a gentlemen's club for the leading merchants and manufacturers. In 1703 they had acquired a royal charter from Queen Anne to gain a monopoly of trading and training of apprentices for within 30 miles (50 kilometres) of the ancient parish, similar to a City livery company, the Bermondsey tanners.

Peek, Frean and Co was established in 1857 at Dockhead, Bermondsey by James Peek and George Hender Frean. They moved to a larger plant in Clements Road in 1866, leading to the nickname 'Biscuit Town' for Bermondsey, where they continued baking until the brand was discontinued in 1989. The former biscuit factory site was renamed as the Pearl Yard Bermondsey in 2025, and is being redeveloped into 1,600 new homes by Greystar.

Bermondsey, specifically Blue Anchor Lane, was also the location of the world's first food canning business, established in 1812, by Donkin, Hall and Gamble.

The Bermondsey battalions

During the Napoleonic Wars volunteer units were formed for home defense, including the 'Old' and 'New' Bermondsey Volunteers (existing in 1799) and the Rotherhithe Volunteers in 1803. After another invasion scare, the 10th (Bermondsey) and 23rd (Rotherhithe) Surrey Rifle Volunteer Corps were formed in 1860–61. Together they became a volunteer battalion of the Queen's (Royal West Surrey Regiment) in 1883, with its drill hall in Jamaica Road. When the Territorial Force was created in 1908 this became the 22nd Battalion, London Regiment (Queen's). After the outbreak of World War I in 1914 it expanded to three battalions, of which the 1/22nd served on the Western Front and the 2/22nd in Palestine.

Following the success of the recruitment campaign for 'Kitchener's Army' in 1914, Lord Kitchener asked the mayors of the Metropolitan boroughs of the County of London if they could raise more 'Pals battalions' drawn from their localities. Despite Bermondsey already supporting the 22nd Londons, the Mayor and Borough Council agreed to form another infantry battalion, which became the 12th (Service) Battalion, East Surrey Regiment (Bermondsey). The men wore the coat of arms of Bermondsey as their collar badge. A number of them were recruited from the 'Black Hand Gang', a notorious Bermondsey street gang of the era, and they proved so skilful at Trench raiding that 'Black Hand Gang' became a nickname for the whole battalion. It served on the Western Front: when the first tanks went into action at the Battle of Flers–Courcelette on 15 September 1916, an aircraft saw the 12th East Surreys following one to attack the village and sent back the famous report: 'A tank is walking down the high street of Flers with the British Army cheering behind'.

Following World War I, the 12th East Surreys were disbanded and the 22nd Londons were reformed in the Territorial Army (TA). The London Regiment was abolished in 1937 and the battalion reverted to being the 6th (Bermondsey) Battalion, The Queen's. During World War II it again formed a second battalion, and both served in the Battle of France and North Africa. The 1/6th was at the Battle of Alamein and then served with the 7th Armoured Division (the 'Desert Rats') in Italy and North West Europe, while the 2/6th were with the 56th (London) Division in Italy. In 1961 the 6th Queen's amalgamated with the other TA battalions of the Queen's Regiment.

20th century

To the east of Tower Bridge, Bermondsey's 3+1⁄2 mi (5.5 km) of riverside were lined with warehouses and wharves, of which the best known is Butler's Wharf. They suffered severe damage in World War II bombing and became redundant in the 1960s following the collapse of the river trade. After standing derelict for some years, many of the wharves were redeveloped under the aegis of the London Docklands Development Corporation during the 1980s.

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Rotherhithe

History

Rotherhithe, located on the south bank of the River Thames between Bermondsey and Deptford, has a long history as a maritime hub. The name "Rotherhithe" is of Anglo-Saxon origin, meaning "landing place for cattle" or "sailor's haven," with the first recorded mention dating to 1105 as "Rederheia". It was also historically known as "Redriff," a name possibly derived from a red rose sign or from the Saxon words "redhra" (mariner) and "hyth" (haven). The area's natural geography, including a bend in the Thames, made it ideal for shipbuilding and docking, and it became the site of London's first docks for the convenience of the city.

Rotherhithe's significance grew during the medieval period. In the 1350s, a manor house for King Edward III was built there, and by the 1370s, the English fleet was fitted out for war with France under the Black Prince and John of Gaunt. Henry IV, afflicted with leprosy, is said to have stayed in Rotherhithe as a recluse in the early 15th century. The area became a center for shipbuilding and maritime trade, with the first gunpowder factory in England established there in 1554. The Mayflower, carrying the Pilgrim Fathers to America in 1620, set sail from a berth near St Mary’s Church, where its captain, Christopher Jones, is buried.

The 17th and 18th centuries saw continued development. In 1612, Rotherhithe shipwrights were awarded a Royal charter, and the area became a key part of London’s maritime economy. Samuel Pepys frequently referred to Rotherhithe as "Redriff" in his diary. The 18th century brought the construction of the first London docks, including Howlands Dock (later Greenland Dock) in 1697, and the Grand Surrey Canal, begun in 1802 to link Rotherhithe with Portsmouth via Epsom, though it only reached Walworth Road and Peckham.

The 19th century marked Rotherhithe’s peak as a commercial and industrial center. The Surrey Commercial Docks expanded significantly, becoming the heart of London’s timber trade, with 80% of UK timber imports passing through the docks by the 1860s. The area saw the construction of major infrastructure, including the Thames Tunnel (completed in 1843), the Rotherhithe Tunnel (opened in 1908), and the Grand Surrey Canal, which was widened to create Stave and Russia docks. The population tripled during this period due to the influx of shipbuilders, dockers, and their families, leading to the founding of new churches, including Holy Trinity in 1850.

The 20th century brought both challenges and transformation. During World War II, the docks suffered heavy damage during the Blitz in 1940, with 350,000 tons of timber destroyed and Holy Trinity Church destroyed, though the docks continued to operate, including the construction of D-Day breakwaters in South Dock. The docks closed completely in 1970, marking the end of an era. In the following decades, the area underwent major redevelopment. The London Dockland Development Corporation (LDDC) took over in 1981, leading to the filling in of most of the docks and the construction of thousands of homes, the Surrey Quays Shopping Centre, and the Surrey Docks Farm. The Jubilee Line opened a Canada Water station in 2000, and the East London Line was extended and reopened as part of the London Overground in 2010, greatly improving transport links.

Today, Rotherhithe is a vibrant area with a mix of residential, commercial, and recreational spaces. The Thames Path National Trail runs through the area, and the Surrey Docks Watersports Centre offers rowing, kayaking, and sailing. The area continues to celebrate its maritime heritage, with landmarks such as the Mayflower Inn, which retains a unique licence to sell both American and British postage stamps, and the church of St Mary’s, which houses a communion table made from the timber of the HMS Temeraire.

Rotherhithe - No. 1

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Rotherhithe - No. 2

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Rotherhithe - No. 3

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Supernaturals

Vampires

• Agnes Shell
• Master Leaver
• The Taxidermist
• The Young Turks

Sources

Rotherhithe

https://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/10/25/adam-dants-map-of-stories-from-the-history-of-rotherhithe/

https://alondoninheritance.com/londonpubs/angel-rotherhithe/

https://www.british-history.ac.uk/old-new-london/vol6/pp134-142

http://www.arthurlloyd.co.uk/Rotherhithe.htm

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotherhithe

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